using these directions. Although commercial looms are available for purchase at
beading stores and some discount stores, I've found that students take greater pride
in the completed project when they make their own loom. Several of my students have
appreciated the rustic look of the loom so much that they decided to leave their
first piece on the loom forever for display!
be your spacers. Draw a line through the center of the width of the rectangles so
that it divides the piece into two long skinny rectangles. About 1/8 inch in from the
end of the spacer place a dot on top of the line. Measuring from this first dot place
additional dots along the line approximately every 1/16 inch until you're about 1/8
inch from the other end. You should have a minimum of one more dot than you will have
beads in the width of your completed project. Extra dots are OK. Mark off the second
rectangle the same way. Use a straight pin to punch a hole through each of the dots
on the spacers. The holes should be large enough in diameter to allow you to later
pass the warp threads through.
threads depends of course on the number of beads you plan for the width of your
project. You'll need one more warp thread than the number of beads (for example a
five bead wide project will require six warp threads, an eleven bead wide project
will require twelve warp threads, etc.). The spacers should each have enough holes to
accommodate all the warp threads (extra holes are OK, just ignore them).
and the corresponding hole in the second spacer. Pull both of the spacers towards the
center of the warp thread and let the ends of the warp threads dangle loose. Thread
the next warp thread using the second holes in the two spacers. Continue until you've
threaded all of the warp threads through both spacers. Then gather the warp threads
at one end and even up their lengths. Carefully tie them together at the ends in an
overhand knot. Do the same for the other ends of the warp threads. Be very careful on
the second knot that you keep each of the threads tightly and evenly pulled,
otherwise some will hang limp when you stretch them in the bow of the loom.
splits in the bow ends leaving the knot on the far end of the loom to keep the bundle
from slipping through when the loom is bowed under tension.
of the bow, carefully flex the bow while pulling the second end of the bundle toward
the other end. Slightly overflex the bow to allow yourself the room to slip the
second knotted end into the far end of the bow. Release the bow slowly and allow it
to spring in place stretching the warp threads tightly from end to end. Straighten up
the spacers so that they are perpendicular to the warp threads and pull them towards
the end of the bow. Don't worry if the bow lays to the side of the warp threads
rather than underneath them. As long as each of the warp threads is stretched
tightly, that's all that matters.
(about 2 1/2 to 3 feet) and thread your beading needle. This will be the weft thread
on which you will string your beads. Hold your bead loom in front of you on a table
or your lap. Orient the warp threads so that they run away from you. I usually bead
starting from the bottom of the loom (the end closest to you) and working up but its
personal preference. You can start from the top and work down if you so desire. If
you're right handed you'll need to tie the end of your weft thread to the leftmost
warp thread just above the bottom spacer. If you're left handed tie off the weft
thread to the rightmost warp thread. Pass the needle with weft thread attached under
all of the warp threads.
6. String the appropriate number of beads on the weft. Pay attention to the pattern
you're working from to select the right colors and sequence of beads. Pull the beads
back against the end of the weft where it is knotted to the warp. Keeping the weft
pulled tightly and oriented perpendicular to the warp threads, use your index finger
underneath the warp threads and beads to push each bead between a pair of warp
threads.
7. The next step is to lock the beads in place. First be sure that there is a warp
thread on both sides of every bead. Your weft thread, still attached to the needle is
projecting out the last bead and under all of the warp threads. Carefully insert the
needle back into the last bead above the last warp thread and pass the needle back
through that row all the time pushing the beads up through the warp threads with your
index finger and insuring that the weft is passing above each of the warp threads.
This wraps the weft around the warp thread and locks the beads in place. You've just
completed the hardest part of loom beading, the first row! From here on it's a
breeze. Just follow your pattern carefully and check each row to make sure each bead
is properly aligned with the warp threads and properly locked in place. If you make a
mistake, just reverse the process and remove the offending bead or add the one you
missed.
8. When you've completed your last row and locked it in place tie off to the warp
thread closest to the first bead in that row (the last bead the needle passed through
when locking in place). Some beaders use tape to secure the warp threads at each end
of the beadwork and then turn the tape and the attached warp threads under so they
don't show when sewing the completed project to clothing or another backing material.
If you choose not to use tape, first remove the knotted ends of the bundled warp
threads from the ends of the loom and untie the overhand knots. Separate the warp
threads into pairs and tie square knots in each pair right up against the last row of
beads. You can braid the remaining length of the warp threads or turn them under and
sew them to a garment.
Congratulations! Now you're ready to start planning your next project! The techniques
you've learned with your small loom can be used to produce much larger and very
complex projects. Remember, patience is the most important skill in any craft!
